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 The Food of New Orleans Carnival
The
native cuisine of La Nouvelle Orleans is a glorious pastiche of
flavours, methods, and techniques that falls under the category of
Creole. However, the Greater New Orleans area actively embraces
the bolder palates of Cajun cooking, which begs the age-old question:
What's the difference between Creole and Cajun cooking?
For our purposes, the best way to describe it is thusly; Creole is to
city as Cajun is to country. Creole foods use dairy fats like
butter and cream to achieve their rich textures, while Cajun chefs use
pork fats like bacon and lard to amplify the flavours. Both
schools of culinary thought rely heavily upon the combination of
onions, celery, and green bell peppers, referred to by all chefs as the
Holy Trinity. The only other difference is their useage of
tomatoes; Creole cuisine uses the tomato for many dishes, while Cajun
cooking uses them sparingly at best.
Creole culture has extended so far into the tapestry of the area that
there are lots of things classified as Creole: there are Creole
horses, Creole roses, Creole cream cheese, Creole tomatoes, the list
goes on. Very often in these cases, the name Creole is bestowed
because they are the best of the breeds (the Creoles knew quality then
they saw it!)
Included below are some commercially-available foods that have become
staples in the Carnival diet. These are not meant to be
commercial endorsements, but rather social indicators of the changing
face of Mardi Gras' many foods...that, and your Professor's personal
kitchen choices.
Bon Appetit!
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Andouille
("on-DOOH-wee") N.
 A
coarse-ground Cajun sausage made from pork butt, shanks, and a small
amount of pork fat, seasoned with cracked black pepper, salt, &
garlic and smoked over pecan wood and sugar cane until very dark in
colour. Not to be confused with the French sausage andouillet, which is rather icky.
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Baguette
("bahg-ETTE") N.
 A
French word for bread that is longer than it is wide, the New Orleans
versions are more properly called "demi-baguettes." What is
properly called a "baguette" is called French Bread in New
Orleans. Baguettes are frequently substituted for French bread
for po' boys. Regardless of what they are called, the recipe may
only
contain flour, yeast, salt, and water. Anything else is not a
baguette!
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Bananas
Foster Pr. N
 Created
by the chefs at Brennan's for their regular patron, gourmand Richard
Foster, this
Orleanian dessert treat has long been a fixture at Brennan's world
famous brunch menu and remains a
much-sought recipe by diners
everywhere. Always theatrical, a volatile mixture of rum and
banana liqueur set ablaze at the table for the final cooking process.
Once lit, it burns off the alcohol in blue-orange flames, leaving
behind a deliciously memorable dessert unlike any other. Not to
be attempted while dining in restaurants with low ceilings, or with
flammable companions...seriously.
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Beignets
("Ben-YAYS"), N.
 Literally
addictive, beignets are a gift from the Acadiens who conceived them as
a kind of fruit fritter. These evolved into the squares of dough
which are fried and then served in three's, liberally doused in
powdered sugar with a cup of café au lait. A New Orleans
version of a continental breakfast and more addictive than chocolate!
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Big Shot
Soda Pr. N.
 A
brand of ubiquitous soft drinks which are much to be seen along the
parade routes throughout the Greater New Orleans Area. See Native
Libations for more on this brand.
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Boudin
("Booh-DAN") N.
This
Cajun sausage, also called
"boudin blanc" or "white boudin" is a delicious combination of pork
& rice. Originally created for frugality, it is now a staple
often sold under the name 'hot boudin.' A much rarer version
called
"boudin rouge" means "blood boudin", and must be bought and used while
fresh.
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Blackened N.
 Refers
to both the herb mixture and the searing process involved in creating a
Cajun blackened dish. The blackening process requires a cast iron
pan heated to very high heat. Meats & hardy vegetables are
quickly seared and their juices sealed in for a unique flavour.
Blackened should never be confused with burned--the flavours are very
different.
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Blue
Runner
 Brand
name for canned red beans done in the "Creole
cream style."
When you can't make your own, these are very close to homemade.
New Orleanians around the world depend upon Blue Runner to get that
great creaminess and texture you can't get anywhere but in New
Orleans. And why? Because the beans must be cooked below
sea level to make them real red beans! Fortunately, once cooked
and canned they retain that texture and flavour anywhere in the
world! Click on the can to buy some online!
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Bread
Pudding
This
signature dessert, another innovention of Creole frugality at its best,
requires the use of stale bread as its first component. A small
quantity of milk, butter, sugar, eggs, and raisins create a memorable
dish. Recipe here for pudding, hard sauce, and traditional lemon
sauce.
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Cafe au
lait ("Cah-fey OH Lay")
 From
the French for 'coffee and milk', proper cafe au lait is made with
coffee & chickory infused with scalded whole milk. Today,
steamed milk is usually substituted for scalded, but the flavour is
nothing like the same.
For those who think that a cafe au lait is anything like a latte, you
are highly mistaken. The depth and breadth of flavours in a cafe
au lait far outstrip those of a mere latte. It is the comparison
between a spicy tasso and luncheon meat.
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Calas
Creole
cooks never wasted anything, and these delightful confections are made
with leftover cooked rice from the previous night's dinner! Fried
to a honey brown and sprinkled in powdered sugar, the cala is a
top-knotch Creole treat.
Try it
for yourself!
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Chaurice
("Shaw-reese") N.
 A
Creole sausage native to New Orleans, but becoming rarer to find.
Since it is such a New Orleans dish, we have included a recipe for
making it here, simply click on the picture. However, be warned
before you begin. You will need a meat grinder--a food processor
simply will not suffice.
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Chicory
("Chick-uh-Ree") N.
An
essential ingredient in coffee to enrich and even out the brew, chicory
is the root of the blue dandelion plant roasted and ground.
During the 19th century, chicory was globally cultivated and used as a
coffee substitute when coffee supplies grew too expensive.
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Crawfish N.
 Also called 'mudbugs,' 'crayfish,'
or 'crawdads,' crawfish are a staple food for New Orleanians and for
Carnival celebrations! Resembling miniature lobsters, 98% of the
crawfish harvested in the
United States come from Louisiana. The sought after tailmeat can
be used in addition to or as a substitution for shrimp and/or
chicken. The most popular way to eat crawfish is the boil, a
large gathering where dozens of pounds of crawfish are boiled in
complicated spice mixtures with ears of corn, potatoes, celery stalks,
and and bay leaves. Be certain to check the label!
Chinese crawfish meat is widely available, but lacks the flavour &
texture of Louisiana crawfish.
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Creole
cream cheese N.
 A
distinctly New Orleans food that is nearly two centuries old, Creole
cream cheese is a soft cheese with a flavour somewhere between
ricotta
and crémé fraiché with just a hint of
buttermilk. It is typically
served at the Creole breakfast table sprinkled with sugar, drizzled
with syrup, or mixed with fruit. Many New Orleanians also
remember the Creole Cream Cheese Ice Cream produced by the late
lamented local chain K & B Drugs. Though the ice cream was
controversially discontinued (the recipe is controlled by Rite-Aid) the
memories of its fans
will never die.
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Creole
tomato N.
 A
particularly meaty and flavourful tomato, Creole tomatoes are essential
to Creole cuisine, which depends upon them for many dishes.
Creole tomatoes are notoriously odd in their shapes and can range from
greenish-yellow to deep red in colour. The dense texture goes
well with Creole cuisine which makes it the hallmark vegetable.
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Daube
Glacé ("Dohb Glah-say") N.
 Before
refrigeration was big, preserving meats in gelatin was a common
practice, and this recipe is the peak of the genré.
Usually made with roast beef or duck, the meat is braised with
seasonings and gelatine. Generally, the gelatine would set
overnight in the cooler temperatures of the icebox. Then as now,
daube glacé is served cold en
croute,
either on crackers or
garlic croutons. Once a common courtesy at any gathering, daube
glacé is
rarity today even in New
Orleans. The only known
producer of daube glacé is Langenstein's Grocery Store in
Metairie, LA.
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Doberge
("Doh-Burzh") N.
 A
unique cake comprised of 8 thin layers of cake between layers of
chocolate creme and lightly frosted. This Creole delight is
believed to be the New Orleans version of a 19th-century dessert called
a Dobos Torte. Regardless of the origin, doberge cakes are
somewhat
difficult to bake and assemble. Fortunately, they are available
at nearly every New Orleans bakery.
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Ètouffée
(AY-too-FAY) N.
This
Creole crawfish dish is made with a blond roux to which a small amount
of tomato sauce is added, and is typically served over rice. The
name comes from the French word meaning "smother," an apt description
of the cooking process.
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Filé
Powder ("Fee-Lay") N.
 A
Cajun phrase for the ground leaves of the sassafras, filé powder
is used as a spice for gumbo, and in some Asian cuisines.
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Frank
Davis Pr.
N.
Known
to audiences across the Gulf South for his cooking and his wry and
wonderful telecommentaries on WWL-TV 4, Frank Davis is also the name of
his successful line of Creole & Cajun seasonings, to be found here.
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French Bread N.
What
would be called a baguette in France is known in New Orleans as
French bread or "po' boy" bread. Characterized by its elongated
shape, crispy beigy-brown crust and white crumb interior, French bread
is the required loaf for making a New Orleans Po' Boy, and slices of
the bread plain, toasted, or buttered are de rigeur next to virtually any
Creole dish. Delicious!
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Grillades ("Gree-YAHDZ") N.
 No
Creole breakfast table was complete without this rich and wonderful
dish comprised of veal pounded flat, floured, and fried in oil with
onions, Creole tomatoes, green peppers, celery, and a little red
wine. Typically served with grits, buttered and herbed.
Today, grillades and grits have escaped the breakfast table to be
served as an anytime delight.
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Gumbo N.
The
dish most closely associated with Louisiana traces its origins back to
the fish stews of the Caribbean. All good gumbos begin with a
medium to dark roux, to which is added broth, celery, onions, okra,
either chicken or seafood, and sausage. Cooked into a stew which
can be anywhere in consistency from a thick bisque to a thin soup, it
is always served over
rice.
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"Holy
Trinity" Im.
N.
 A term
taken from Christianity which in Creole and Cajun cuisines refers to
the combination of onions, green peppers, and celery which appear so
frequently in recipes from the region.
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Hubig's
Pies ("Hew-Bigs") Pr. N.
 A
New Orleans favourite for decades, the Simon Hubig Co. has been
producing fried pies, gourmet, and snack pies since 1922 in the
historic Faubourg Marigny. Originally a Texas chain of bakeries,
the line faltered during the Great Depression and all the Hubig's
plants closed...except the New Orleans branch which survives and
flourishes to this day under the families Bowman and Ramsey.
The Hubig's mascot and logo is named "Savory Simon," and is one of the
most recognizable icons in the city. Click on Simon to visit the
Hubig's site, and order some really great pies!
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Jambalaya N.
 Resembling the
Spanish dish paella,
jambalaya takes its name from jamón
for 'ham,' and first shows up in Creole cuisine in the early 18th
century. Traditional jambalayas hold an interesting variation
here between Creole and Cajun styles. Creole, typically heavy on
the tomatoes uses a roux to make jambalaya, while the roux-happy Cajuns
base theirs on a tomato base! Regardless of the source,
jambalayas use rice, onions, garlic, green peppers, seasonings, and one
or any combination of ham, sausage, fresh pork, chicken, oysters,
shrimp, or crawfish. Easy to make and a regular sight at any
large gathering or event, the Louisiana city of Gonzalez is considered
to be the Jambalaya Capital of the World.
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Konriko
 The
oldest rice mill in the United States, Konriko is an anagram for the
Conrad Rice Company, founded in 1912 in Bayou Teche, Louisiana.
For most of the 20th century, New Orleanians lived off of Konriko Rice
and their brands of seasonings. Your humble Professor is a
self-professed fan of Konriko's Creole Seasoning and their Wild Pecan
Rice!
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Mirliton
("Murl-uh-Tawn") N.
 Called chayote, christophene, or vegetable pear, the
Creole mirliton is a cousin to the squash and cucumber, and can be
found literally around the world. Typically green, flatish, and
slightly wrinkled, the flesh of the mirliton is bland, with a
consistency between cucumbers & potatoes. The pip, which is
usually tossed out has a nutty flavour. A versatile vegetable
with a musical name.
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Muffuletta
("Moof-uh-leht-eh") Pr. N.
Invented
by Salvatore Lupo at the Central Grocery in 1908, this French Quarter
native sandwich has its roots in the Italian Creole community.
Though no one is really certain whether the sandwich is named for the
soft round Italian bread with which it is made, or for a particular
customer of Mr. Lupo's for whom he would prepare it, the muffuletta is
definitely a New Orleans food, and can be found throughout the
area. Packed with three kinds of meat,
two kinds of cheese and a heaping helping of an olive relish called
"wop salad" this sandwich
intends to satisfy. Lots of napkins
should be kept on hand, and for more demonstrative eaters perhaps a pet
dog.
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Muscadine ("Musk-uh-Dine") Pr. N.
 A varietal of
thick-skinned grape native to the American southeast and first
cultivated in St. Augustine, Florida in the 16th century, muscadines
have been used for centuries to make fine port and dessert wines,
though some drier varieties have been cultivated in St. Tammany
Parish. There are many fine wines, jams, jellies, and syrups made
with muscadines, which have a more complex spiciness than their Concord
cousins.
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Okra Pr. N.
 A unique flowering
variety of the mallow family, okra originated in West Africa and made
its way to Louisiana via the slave trade. A staple in Creole
cuisine, okra is also widely consumed in India, throughout the middle
East, Japan, and much of the Mediterranean. Okra can be prepared
a number of ways, but to Creole cooks it is a primary ingredient in
gumbo for it's thickening properties.
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Pecan Pr. N.
 This wonderful nut
is a relative of the hickory, and grows wild throughout Louisiana
and the southeastern states. Pecans are a hardy tree which
thrives on the hot, humid summers in Louisiana, and can produce nuts
for over three hundred years.
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Pickle
Meat N.
 For
real New Orleans cooks, no pot of red beans is decent without some
pickle meat, also called Creole pickled pork. An unusual recipe,
pickle meat must be prepared at least three days before red beans,
which is why most families had pork on Thursday nights, so the
pickle meat will have time to cure before Monday's red beans!
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Po' Boy Pr. N.
 Nothing makes a
Carnival diner happier than getting their hands around this eponymous
sandwich whose origins are murky at best. All that is certain is
that the area of the French Market is definitely the po' boy's home
ground. Some say the sandwich was created by the famous
Madame Begué in 1895 and gained its name from the cries of the
poor children "give a po' boy a sandwich." Others believe it was
created in 1929 by brothers Clovis & Benjamin Martin who, during a
transit strike in the city, took pity on all those "poor boys" and
began offering up a cheap but filling meal; French bread split
lengthways and filled with gravy and bits of beef roasts or sliced
potatoes and gravy for only a nickel. Today, the roast beef po'
boy is the most popular type, and the sliced potatoes have evolved into
french fry po' boys. Just remember, no matter where you get your
po' boy, know this phrase:
Fully
dressed--usually means all dressings; shredded lettuce, mustard,
mayonnaise, Creole tomatoes, and pickles. Occasionally, some po'
boy stands have other dressings as well, so make certain you know what
you are getting!
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Pontchartrain
Vineyards
 Nestled
in the piney woods near Covington, LA, Pontchartrain Vineyards is the
premiere traditional vintner of the area, producing a fine line of
wines from the only native wine grape to the area, the
Cynthiana/Norton. They produce an exceptional product that is
specifically crafted to complement Creole and Cajun cuisines.
Your humble Professor recommends the Rouge Militaire and the Zydeco
Rosato.
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Pralines
("Praah-leens") N.
 The official candy of New Orleans and one of the Creoles
most beloved culinary gifts, pralines (properly pronounced in their
homeland with a long "A" sound as in the word "bark") have become
synonymous with New Orleans, and rightfully so! Simple, elegant,
and utterly delicious, pralines now come in a variety of flavours, but
nothing tops the original combination of meaty pecans and carmelized
sugar and cream.
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Red
Beans N.
Commonly
called red kidney beans in the rest of the world, Creole red beans have
achieved legendary status because of their deeply creamy texture.
While seasoning and cooking methods have a lot to do with that quality,
the most important ingredient in New Orleans red beans is where they
are cooked, specifically in New Orleans! The city sits below sea
level, which gives the beans that uncommonly creamy quality.
The
traditional day for red beans is on Mondays, because that was wash
day. The beans could sit on the stove for long periods of time
unattended while the laundry duties were finished. Throughout the
history of the city, red beans and the companion dish rice have graced
every table, regardless of class, colour, or composure--the great
unifyer!
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Remoulade ("Rem-uh-LAHD") Pr. Fr. N.
Yet
another French dish that evolved into an altogether different version
in New Orleans, remoulade is a popular Creole concoction which inspires
fierce devotions. While the French parent sauce is a smooth white
sauce, Creole remoulades typically come in three versions; oil-based, which is the closest
to the original New Orleans remoulades, then those based in mayonnaise
and finally those based in catsup. All three types have their
devoted fans, and each will tell you that theirs is the best, and
exactly why they feel that way.
Remember, never engage a remoulade fan in an arguement--there is no way
to win. Just smile, nod, grunt at the appropriate times and
keep eating!
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Roux
(Roo) Pr. Fr. N.
 Literally, the base for most Creole and many Cajun
dishes. Equal amounts of bacon fat & flour tossed into a
skillet and
literally fried together to brown the flour and create a specific,
distinctive taste. Depending on the recipe, roux can be lightly
browned into a blonde roux or allowed to fry into a dark roux which
carries a bolder, more complex flavour. Olive oil may be
substituted, but the flavour and consistency will be different.
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Shrimp
Creole N.
This
dish's roots are the
beginnings of Creole cuisine, and go all the way back to the influx of
the Spanish and the
ministrations of a single nun. Sister Xavier Hebert was an
Ursuline nun who became the first female pharmacist in the
country. She and her order were constantly advising the populace
of New Orleans to use herbs and spices in their cooking, as much for
their medicinal properties as for their seasoning power. When the
Spanish introduced tomatoes and peppers to the city it provided the
genesis for this delicious meal. It is possible that this dish
began as a kind of boulliabase with fish bits throughout, but shrimp
were certainly the perfect choice. When dining on shrimp or
crawfish Creole, thank Sister Hebert for telling people how to cook!
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Snowballs Pr. N.
 An
unusually irony-free name, this frozen treat was invented by native New
Orleanian Ernest Hansen in 1934. Hansen's brilliant invention,
the Sno-Bliz created a fluffy, flaky shaved ice unlike any other.
Combined with his wife Mary's special candy-like syrup flavourings, the
New Orleans snowball became a favourite with critics, mayors, and
gourmands across the world. Hansen's Sno-Bliz Snowballs were
reviewed by Zagat's, and are still in operation today from spring to
fall at 4801 Tchoupitoulas Street. Even though there have been
many imitators, the Hansen Family have never allowed their invention
outside of their shop, meaning that there is only one place to get a
real snowball!
Though there are many imitators, none are like Hansen's. Among
the most popular flavours: Creole cream cheese, wedding cake,
lime, orange, and a true New Orleanian treat--chocolate snowball
covered in condensed milk!
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Sous Chef ("Sue
Sheff") Pr. N.
French for "under", a sous
chef is literally the chef-in-charge, directly beneath the executive
chef. It is the sous who oversees and conducts the meal from his
kitchen to your table, and is to be thanked at the end of a very good
meal!
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Tabasco Br. Na.
 The eponymous brand
of pepper sauces, Tabasco was created by Edward Avery McIllhenny in
1863 on Avery Island, one of five saltdome islands about 140 miles from
New Orleans. According to family legend, McIllhenny used
discarded cologne bottles to sell the first batches of his "Tabasco"
sauce, the shapes of which are recalled in the bottles of today.
Though initially a New Orleans delicacy, by the 1870's Tabasco became
popular in the Northern states and internationally. Today, the
world headquarters for the company remain on Avery Island, still run by
direct descendants of the McIllhenny family.
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Tasso
("tasso") N.
 A
highly seasoned smoked pork which adds a spicy aromatic flavor to any
dish with which it is prepared. It is easily available in
Louisiana and via mail order, and has always been considered a
delicacy. Lots of folks use tasso for their red beans, but
purists will tell you that pickle meat is the way to go. You
decide!
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Tony Chachere's ("Tony ShA-shuh-REES") Br.Na.
 In 1972, Cajun chef
Tony Chachere, author of "Tony's Cajun Country Cookbook" created his
unique blend of seasonings and began marketing it across the
country. Today, grandson Don controlls the company in their
hometown of Avondale, LA, making his grandfather's name a household
name worldwide.
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Wop Salad Pr. N.
A 19th
century anagram for "with out papers" used derogitorialy to describe
new Italian immigrants, in New Orleans it refers to a delightful olive
salad with pickled peppers, carrots, and...well, you get the
idea. Every delicatessen, cafe, restaurant, and bistro in New
Orleans offers some form of wop salad. It is also an integral
ingredient for muffalettas, another Creole Italian delicacy!!!
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Zatarain's Br. Na.
 What started as a
root beer patent in 1889 would become a major industry based in Gretna,
Louisiana. Emile Zatarain, Sr. expanded his root beer business to
include peppered vegetables and spices, marketing the unique Creole
flavours across the United States. The Zatarain family sold the
business in 1963 to McCormick, which uses the original recipes today.
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